把混合酒飲裝在非玻璃器皿中沒(méi)什么特別新鮮的。潘趣，傳統(tǒng)上就是裝在瓷器中的，這可以追溯到十七世紀(jì)。第一次有記錄的薄荷朱麗普配方，裝在鋼或錫制的酒壺中，則出現(xiàn)在美國(guó)著名旅游作家約翰·戴維斯1803年出版的《四年半在美國(guó)行》中 。然后，20世紀(jì)60年代的提基文化的到來(lái)推出了異域風(fēng)情，波利尼西亞，陶瓷馬克杯，挖空的熱帶水果和噴火的火山潘趣碗。20世紀(jì)70年代玻璃器皿變得有些古板，提基也失去它的吸引力，直到它在20世紀(jì)90年代的復(fù)興。也就是說(shuō)，在發(fā)酵的20世紀(jì)80年代，玻璃器皿變得越來(lái)越大，以裝得下性感沙灘這樣的雞尾酒，而小小的紙傘也變得五顏六色，吸管反而成了有品的象征。

There’s nothing particularly modern about serving a mixed drink in a vessel other than a glass. Punch, traditionally served in China cups, date as far back as the seventeenth century. The first recorded recipe for the Mint Julep, traditionally served in a steel or pewter jug, appeared in a book called Travels for Four and Half Years in the United States of America by celebrated travel writer John Davis in 1803. Then, of course, the arrival of tiki culture of the 1960s introduced exotic, Polynesian, ceramic mugs, hollowed-out tropical fruit and fire-spitting volcano punch bowls. Still, until its revival in the 1990s, tiki lost its allure and from 1970s glassware became somewhat staid. Until, that is, the barmy 1980s, when glassware went super-sized in order to contain giant, lurid-coloured Sex on the Beach-like cocktails – a time when little umbrellas and colourful crazy-straws were considered real class.

但過(guò)去十年中，幾乎每一個(gè)關(guān)于玻璃器皿的常規(guī)都被光榮推倒。對(duì)呈現(xiàn)的重新定義使得盛酒的器皿包括從傳統(tǒng)酒壺、玩具金屬消防桶、塑料帶輪垃圾桶、鴕鳥(niǎo)殼，回收的啤酒易拉罐，到人造醫(yī)藥瓶和輸血袋的一切。現(xiàn)在，比以往更花哨的，古怪的裝飾物被鍛造成視覺(jué)雙關(guān)語(yǔ)，泄露著飲料的故事，勾出微妙的風(fēng)味。因此，通過(guò)無(wú)窮無(wú)盡的社交媒體病毒式的傳播，如微信，微博， Facebook或Twitter 。在中國(guó)，我一直很喜歡失落天堂的喬治內(nèi)梅奇的紙袋大吉利——基本上，一個(gè)包裹在一個(gè)牛皮紙袋中海明威大吉利既有助于告訴飲料的故事，又增加了呈現(xiàn)時(shí)的視覺(jué)誘惑。受到過(guò)去那杯茶壺Kir Royales的啟發(fā)，我在酒吧里創(chuàng)造了波士頓茶黨：用波本威士忌，濃縮蘋(píng)果汁，檸檬，楓葉糖漿，薄荷，蘇打水調(diào)制而成，并裝載兩個(gè)冷藏咖啡杯中。它非常受歡迎，并為我的酒吧帶來(lái)了知名度。事實(shí)證明，茶杯里也能有海闊天空。

The last decade, though, has seen almost every known convention in glassware gloriously overturned. A new emphasis on presentation has seen drinks being served in everything from traditional hip flasks to miniature, metal fire buckets via plastic wheelie bins and ostrich shells, recycled beer cans, faux medicine bottles and blood transfusions bags. Now, more than ever, fancy, outlandish garnishes are being wrought and fangled as smart visual puns in order to tell the story of a drink, tease out subtle flavours and, as a result, garner worldwide buzz for any given venue via endless social media channels like WeChat, WeiBo, Facebook or Twitter. In China, I always liked George Nemec’s Paper Bag Daiquiri at Lost Heaven – basically, a Hemingway Daiquiri served wrapped in a brown paper bag which both helps tell the story of the drink and adds a tactile element to the serve, too. Inspired by my experience with the makeshift, after-hours Kir Royals, I created my own teapot serve at my own bar: The Boston Tea Party, with bourbon, pressed apple juice, lemon, maple syrup, mint, soda, served in two chilled espresso cups – it was massively popular and, for the buzz it created for my bar, proved, quite literally, a storm in a teacup.

但是在玻璃器皿或怪誕的其它器皿的創(chuàng)新方面有這樣兩個(gè)巨人：Artesian的亞歷克斯卡特里娜，和Nightjar的馬里安貝克，他們都在倫敦。兩人最近都創(chuàng)立了帶有亞洲元素的雞尾酒，裝載木制的日本馬蘇杯中。 貝克的酒飲，Beyongd the Sea，是用牡蠣葉浸泡的杜松子酒、菲諾雪莉酒、電子苦精，柚子和所謂的“海藻空氣”調(diào)制而成。當(dāng)然，是呈現(xiàn)在在一個(gè)巨大的貝殼中。 卡特里娜的酒飲，Prosperrity，是總統(tǒng)的改編，用在瓦器里熟化的混合朗姆酒和梅酒，并裝在清漆馬蘇杯與日本漫畫(huà)餐巾紙呈現(xiàn)。

But, for innovation in glassware, or batty, obscuro vessels, there are two titans in the genre: Alex Katrena at Artesian and, also in London, Marian Beke’s Nightjar. Both have recently offered Asian-inspired cocktails presented in wooden Japanese masu cups. Beke’s drink, Beyond the Sea, is made with oyster-leaf-infused gin, fino sherry, electric bitters, grapefruit and a so-called “seaweed air” served, naturally, in a giant seashell. Katrena’s drink, Prosperity, is a twist on the El Presidente, with a blend of rums and umeshu matured in a clay jar, served in a lacquered masu cup and a Japanese manga napkin.

雖說(shuō)聽(tīng)起來(lái)很有趣，但老實(shí)說(shuō)我不確定我真的喜歡。對(duì)我來(lái)說(shuō)，容器是裝飾的延伸，而且作為一種有意義的裝飾，需要與雞尾酒相互呼應(yīng)——也就是說(shuō)，是整體的一部分，而非追新求異的小伎倆。以上雞尾酒的容器是有效的是因?yàn)榕c雞尾酒本身十分相配。雞尾酒本身就很不錯(cuò)，而容器則使故事完整。這是很重要的一點(diǎn)，因?yàn)橛行r(shí)候感覺(jué)關(guān)注點(diǎn)在呈現(xiàn)上比在內(nèi)容上更多。記住，你對(duì)外觀投入越多，容器，呈現(xiàn)等，你就越能夠提升客人的體驗(yàn)，而如果雞尾酒做的不好，則起到相反的效果。不論如何，我認(rèn)為，夸張容器的潮流已經(jīng)退去，越來(lái)越多的調(diào)酒師認(rèn)為風(fēng)格比物質(zhì)更重要，所以真正做的好的人不愿意自己被與胡亂使用容器的人混為一談。而且，在倫敦Talented Mr Fox的馬特懷利做出了Urban Fox后，我們自問(wèn)，我們是不是可以從這里開(kāi)始？

Still, while all this sounds like great fun, to be honest, I’m not sure how I feel about these elaborate serves. For me, the vessel is really an extension of the garnish and, as with all effective, meaningful garnishes, they need to add something to the cocktail – in other words, they need to contribute to the overall, net experience of the drink, not just act as some novelty or gimmick. The vessels for the drinks above work because the serve fits with what is, essentially, an already good cocktail – they complete a story. An important point because, these days, it can sometimes feel that the focus is more on the serve than the contents of the drink. Remember, the more time you invest on the presentation, vessel, and serve, the more you elevate the expectations of your guest – the greater potential, then, for disappointment, if the liquid turns out to be limp. Either way, I think the trend for indulgent vessels might be on the wane. As more and more bartenders favour style over substance, so the more serious craftspeople among them will distance themselves from the gimmicky packaging and focus instead on quality or speed of service. Besides, after Matt Whiley’s Urban Foxtail, created at London bar Talented Mr Fox, where, we could ask, do we go from here?

雖說(shuō)如此，我們還是應(yīng)該記住，我們這些調(diào)酒師總是會(huì)被認(rèn)為對(duì)于2000年后的酒吧文化太過(guò)認(rèn)真。我們需要記住的是，首先，我們調(diào)酒師是主持人和藝人。因此，有趣的呈現(xiàn)、怪異的容器其實(shí)和古董玻璃杯或是經(jīng)典器皿其實(shí)是一樣的。也許精心制作的呈現(xiàn)為自己贏得了酒單中的位置。正如一位酒吧經(jīng)理最近對(duì)我所說(shuō)的那樣：“好的馬提尼不論用什么東西呈現(xiàn)我都會(huì)喝”。

That said, it’s worth remembering us bartenders have often been charged with taking ourselves too seriously in this new, post-2000 era of bar culture. We need to remember that, first and foremost, we bartenders are hosts and entertainers. So perhaps fun serves and wayward vessels are just as relevant as antique glassware and perfectly made classics. Maybe elaborate serves have earned their space on the menu. As one bar manager I spoke to recently, “You could put a good Martini in almost anything – I’ll still drink it”.

Goldfish House Punch

來(lái)自特里斯坦斯蒂芬森的《好奇的調(diào)酒師》，這是一款用“魚(yú)缸”呈現(xiàn)，可供20個(gè)人共享的大型雞尾酒的縮小版。從本質(zhì)上講，它是經(jīng)典源自1732年的Fish House 潘趣的澄清版本。它放棄了傳統(tǒng)上用的瓷器做容器，而改用金魚(yú)缸和塑料袋。

40ml 無(wú)色陳年朗姆酒
40ml 水
10ml 歌岱“南極洲” 白福兒
10ml 澄清的檸檬汁*
10ml 糖漿
4ml 桃子白蘭地**

所有配料加冰攪拌，以透明金魚(yú)碗呈現(xiàn)。上桌前撒上干龍蒿，即 “魚(yú)食”，然后裝在裝有魚(yú)形冰塊和吸管的塑料袋中呈現(xiàn)。

* 使用agar-agar法制作。

** 使用家用碳水過(guò)濾器澄清。

From The Curious Bartender by Tristan Stephenson

This is a scaled-down recipe for one serving usually served in a “fish bowl” for ten. Essentially, a clarified version of the Fish House Punch, a classic from 1732, this serve switches out the traditional china punch bowl for a goldfish bowl and plastic bags – the kind used to give away goldfish as prizes at fun-fairs in the UK.

40ml Colourless, aged rum
40ml Water
10ml Godet “Antarctica” Folle Blanche
10ml Clarified lemon juice*
10ml Sugar syrup
4ml Peach brandy**

Stir all ingredients over ice in a clear goldfish bowl. Sprinkle dried tarragon – the “fish food” – before serving. Ladle each serve into a clear plastic bag containing fish-shaped ice and straw.

*Made using the agar-agar clarification method.

**Clarified using a household carbon water filter.

Urban Foxtail No 2

倫敦Talented Mr Fox酒吧馬特懷利
這肯定成為推動(dòng)邊界概念，但關(guān)鍵的是，與此同時(shí)，它的工作原理告訴會(huì)場(chǎng)的故事，或許，拱，其創(chuàng)作者的幽默很英國(guó)的感覺(jué)。

迪麥歌朗姆酒
孜然糖漿
蘋(píng)果酒
“蘋(píng)果垃圾桶汁”*

這種飲料的確切配方是秘密，但我們認(rèn)為他們會(huì)非常接近大吉利加抗壞血中的酸。用帶輪塑料垃圾桶呈現(xiàn)，所謂的“垃圾桶汁”用另一個(gè)袋子裝，放在垃圾桶上面，可以用來(lái)加進(jìn)酒飲中調(diào)節(jié)酸度。

*蘋(píng)果渣，抗壞血酸和孜然的組合。

Matt Whiley at the Talented Mr Fox, London

This serve certainly pushes boundaries conceptually but, crucially, at the same time, it works to tell the story of the venue and, probably, the arch, and very British sense of the humour of its creator.

Diplomatico Rum
Cumin syrup
Cider
“Apple bin juice”*

Exact specifications of this drink are secret but we reckon they’d be pretty close to a Daiquiri with the acidity coming from the ascorbic acid. Served in a miniature plastic wheelie bin, the so-called “bin juice” comes in a separate bag resting on top of the bin and can be added to adjust the acidity of the drink.

*A mix of apple reduction, ascorbic acid and cumin.

Purple Drank

受Lil Wayne的歌啟發(fā)，這杯雞尾酒以詼諧的手法改編了受美國(guó)說(shuō)唱歌手和他們的追隨者青睞的一種非法飲料（在休斯敦首次創(chuàng)立，因此它的綽號(hào)是“得克薩斯糖漿”。傳統(tǒng)上，這種飲料采用過(guò)量的的處方止咳糖漿——可待因和異丙嗪的混合體，并與與激浪和喬利蓄牧混合。
50ml 香草波本泡酒
10ml Bols 藍(lán)庫(kù)拉索利口酒
10ml 甜糖漿
10ml 覆盆子糖漿
10ml 檸檬汁
20ml 橘子汁
蘇打水

加冰攪拌，過(guò)濾倒入雞尾酒杯。

*制作香草波本泡酒：將兩根香草枝和45克葡萄干放入一瓶波本酒中，然后真空包裝起來(lái)，在溫水中慢煮四小時(shí)。

**制作糖果糖漿：將五個(gè)Fox糖果與白糖和水混合，然后用真空包裝起來(lái)，放在37.5度的溫水中煮十分鐘。